| Suzanne Clothier discusses the humane use of a Pinch or Prong Collar. |
Eromit Labrador Retrievers
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Puppy Guide
| Website, photo and contents copyright of Kinderdoggin (c) 2008. Website Design by Kinderdoggin Web Design. Suggestions? Comments? Report broken links to the webmaster. |
| Need a good name for your new puppy? Follow the link to get some ideas! |
Supply Checklist
If this is your first puppy, or the first one you've had in a while, use this handy list to make sure you've got
all the supplies you'll need on hand!
If this is your first puppy, or the first one you've had in a while, use this handy list to make sure you've got
all the supplies you'll need on hand!
 | Crate- We like the Petmate Petporter because it is rugged, airline approved and available just | |
| about everywhere (petstores, Walmart, etc). The large blue kennel will fit most adult labs, but you might want to start out with a smaller size for your puppy (or partition the large crate off during crate training). If you will be attending trials, you may like the portability of a folding wire or fabric crate as well. | ||
| Food and Water Dishes - stainless steel or ceramic dishes are best. Bowls with a flat bottom | |
| are suggested to prevent spills. Plastic dishes can be eaten and have also been found to release chemicals into your dog's food and water. These toxins may also cause your yellow lab's nose to fade in color. | ||
| Bedding - Where will your puppy sleep? Probably in his crate. Make it comfy by adding an easy-to- | |
| wash crate pad. You may also want to get a dog bed or pillow so he has some where to rest when he is not in his crate. | ||
| Chew Toys- Your puppy will be teething until he is 6 or 7 months old, and will need something to | |
| chew on to ease the pain. We prefer using food items or toys that hold food for chewing purposes, because it helps to eliminate the confusion between what is and is not allowed for chewing. Rawhide or real uncooked bones, Busy Buddies, and Kongs are great chewing items. | ||
| Play Toys - Get your puppy used to fetching all sorts of things. Almost anything will make a good | |
| play toy but remember not to leave your puppy unattended with toys he is not allowed to chew (it can be dangerous and forms bad habits too). Stuffed toys, rope toys, giggle balls, and all sorts of household items like empty pop bottles make fun toys with careful supervision. See our training tip section below for more ideas on how to make the best of play time. | ||
| Retriever Training Items - You are going to want to encourage your puppy to retrieve, whether | |
| you are a hunter, dog sport enthusiast, or just hoping to raise a fine pet. Dummies, Dead fowl trainers, or dumbells are available from a variety of online sources, or if your lucky, your local hunting and outdoor supplier. | ||
| Collar - Your puppy will be sent home with an appropriately sized flat collar. You will need to get | |
| larger ones as he grows. | ||
| Training Collar - If you are going to be training your puppy in a traditional manner, please | |
| consider using a pinch collar instead of a choke collar. See the link at left by Suzanne Clothier for an article explaining the difference. *** Never leave any type of training collar on your puppy when you are not training him. *** | ||
| Leash - You will receive a standard size leash with your puppy package. You may also want to | |
| get a longer leash or long-line for training later on. | ||
| Food - You will receive a small starter bag of Purina Pro Plan puppy food with your puppy package | |
| (unless the puppy is flown). For more information on your puppy's nutrition, view the 'Feeding' guide below. | ||
| Training Treats - You will want to keep a healthy supply of these on hand! We like to use cat | |
| treats such as Pounce or Temptations for training because they are already the appropriate size, but you can use almost any food items that have been cut up into bite sized bits. | ||
| Brush - We like the Zoom Groom for regular brushing , but the Pet Perfect is a must have!. Labs | |
| are hairy beasts but if you have a Pet Perfect deshedding tool, you can prevent a LOT of sweeping! I can't recommend this thing enough. I haven't seen these in stores but found mine at a home show in town. They can be purchased online using the above link. | ||
| Nail Clippers - Any style with a clip regulator to prevent trimming too much is recommended. | |
| Shampoo - Johnson and Johnson "No More Tears" Baby Shampoo - helps clean the puppy up | |
| without damaging fur or irritating their eyes. It is also much more reasonably priced than comparable doggy versions and is available everywhere. | ||
| Clicker - A tool for the modern trainer! Instructions on how to use your clicker are provided in the | |
| puppy owner's manual. | ||
| Books - At least one good health care and one good training book is recommended. Visit our | |
| bookstore for ideas. | ||
| Poop Scooper Unit - available at any pet store. | |
| First Aid Kit - A human type first aid kit will work, but there are pet first aid kits on the market too. | |
| Camera - Don't forget to take lots of puppy pictures - they grow up so fast! |
| Accessories - There is almost no limit to the number and type of items you can get for your | |
| puppy or dog these days. Above are considered the must-have items - visit your local pet or outdoor supply store for ideas or visit our dog sport section to the left. |
| Where to Shop Online Cabelas Canadian Gundog Supply Our Amazon Bookstore Misty Marsh Canadian Dog Agility Equipment Dogwise Bookstore Smith Obedience & Agility Supplies |
Feeding Your Puppy
While your puppy is growing, you will need to increase the amount eaten frequently, but be careful not to
overfeed. Your lab puppy will probably act hungry all the time (labs are known to be real monsters in the
food department!), but it is important to keep him at a healthy weight. Most labs do not know the
meaning of self-control when it comes to food so you need to learn to judge his condition and base your
feeding quantities on that. In general, the amounts suggested on the bag of dog food will be far too
much for your lab as an adult, but as a puppy you may need to feed the suggested amount or a bit more.
Again, please feed your puppy based on his condition, increasing the quantity provided if he starts to
become thin and decreasing it slightly if he is getting pudgy. Visit our article on Ideal Body Condition to
learn how to determine your puppy's ideal weight, or ask your veterinarian for assistance.
What about raw foods?
A raw food diet is a non-commercial diet made up of a balance of raw meats, bones, veggies and fruits.
The primary benefit to a raw food diet is that you know exactly what your dog is eating, and you are not
exposing him to potentially harmful preservatives that may be found in lower-end kibble. While we
acknowledge that feeding a raw food diet can have excellent health benefits, it's success is dependant
on a thorough understanding of the nutritional needs of a dog, and we do not recommend it's use
unless you have done your research. The down side to feeding a raw diet is that it can be inconvenient if
not difficult to maintain a good supply of raw meats and vegetable matter at an affordable price. It can
also be quite time consuming to prepare.
We like to feed our dogs an assortment of raw meats and vegetables as a supplement to their regular
diet. We have found this system to work very well. Vegetables provide good 'filler' material for hungry
Labs - allowing them to consume a wider variety of vitamins and minerals without being bogged down
with excess calories. Raw bones also work well for cleaning teeth. Cooked bones should not be fed, as
they can splinter and cause intestinal damage.
Here is a list of human foods that dogs should NOT eat for safety reasons:
This is not a comprehensive list - we will add to it as we learn more, but please ensure your dog's own
safety by feeding him only food products known to be safe. Keep in mind that in small quantities, most of
these foods will not produce a reaction, but your dogs should be monitored if it is discovered that he has
gotten into something poisonous. In addition, some dogs have been known to have allergic reactions to
foods that other dogs eat all the time. Just like with people, every dog is unique and should be treated as
such.
There are other poisonous things that dogs need to watch out for. Toads, for instance - Nestle fetched a
large toad that she found in our basement (ew! don't ask me how it got in!). The slime from the toad's
skin contained a mild toxin that caused her to drool, tremble, and shake her head excessively. Luckily, it
was not a toxic species - but the situation was a good reminder to be aware that there are natural
hazards in your own environment. Be aware of berries, bugs, snakes, mushrooms, or toads that may be
poisonous in your area. Teach your puppy to "leave it!" at an early age so that you can prevent him from
eating every shiny thing he sees.
Good Foods
While your puppy is growing, you will need to increase the amount eaten frequently, but be careful not to
overfeed. Your lab puppy will probably act hungry all the time (labs are known to be real monsters in the
food department!), but it is important to keep him at a healthy weight. Most labs do not know the
meaning of self-control when it comes to food so you need to learn to judge his condition and base your
feeding quantities on that. In general, the amounts suggested on the bag of dog food will be far too
much for your lab as an adult, but as a puppy you may need to feed the suggested amount or a bit more.
Again, please feed your puppy based on his condition, increasing the quantity provided if he starts to
become thin and decreasing it slightly if he is getting pudgy. Visit our article on Ideal Body Condition to
learn how to determine your puppy's ideal weight, or ask your veterinarian for assistance.
What about raw foods?
A raw food diet is a non-commercial diet made up of a balance of raw meats, bones, veggies and fruits.
The primary benefit to a raw food diet is that you know exactly what your dog is eating, and you are not
exposing him to potentially harmful preservatives that may be found in lower-end kibble. While we
acknowledge that feeding a raw food diet can have excellent health benefits, it's success is dependant
on a thorough understanding of the nutritional needs of a dog, and we do not recommend it's use
unless you have done your research. The down side to feeding a raw diet is that it can be inconvenient if
not difficult to maintain a good supply of raw meats and vegetable matter at an affordable price. It can
also be quite time consuming to prepare.
We like to feed our dogs an assortment of raw meats and vegetables as a supplement to their regular
diet. We have found this system to work very well. Vegetables provide good 'filler' material for hungry
Labs - allowing them to consume a wider variety of vitamins and minerals without being bogged down
with excess calories. Raw bones also work well for cleaning teeth. Cooked bones should not be fed, as
they can splinter and cause intestinal damage.
Here is a list of human foods that dogs should NOT eat for safety reasons:
- grapes & raisins - can cause kidney failure
- onions - can cause anemia
- chocolate - dark baker's chocolate can lead to seizures, coma or even death. Milk chocolate is
not as toxic but I would never feed it intentionally - Apple seeds, peach pits, and cherry pits - contain cyanide and overconsumption may lead to
poisoning. The fruit itself is safe and delicious. - Avocados- all parts are toxic
- tomatoes - the plant itself is toxic, possibly the fruit as well
- Macadamia nuts - can cause weakness and paralysis
- Nutmeg - can cause seizures and death
- Caffeine - coffee, tea, and other caffeinated products can cause the same symptoms as
chocolate toxicity. - Mushrooms - as with humans, some varieties are poisonous to dogs. Further research is
required to determine which species, if any, are safe for dogs to eat. - Spoiled foods - never feed your dog moldy or rotten foods. If it's not good for you to eat, it's not
good for him to eat either.
This is not a comprehensive list - we will add to it as we learn more, but please ensure your dog's own
safety by feeding him only food products known to be safe. Keep in mind that in small quantities, most of
these foods will not produce a reaction, but your dogs should be monitored if it is discovered that he has
gotten into something poisonous. In addition, some dogs have been known to have allergic reactions to
foods that other dogs eat all the time. Just like with people, every dog is unique and should be treated as
such.
There are other poisonous things that dogs need to watch out for. Toads, for instance - Nestle fetched a
large toad that she found in our basement (ew! don't ask me how it got in!). The slime from the toad's
skin contained a mild toxin that caused her to drool, tremble, and shake her head excessively. Luckily, it
was not a toxic species - but the situation was a good reminder to be aware that there are natural
hazards in your own environment. Be aware of berries, bugs, snakes, mushrooms, or toads that may be
poisonous in your area. Teach your puppy to "leave it!" at an early age so that you can prevent him from
eating every shiny thing he sees.
Good Foods
- Red or Green Bell Peppers
- Celery
- Lettuce (although most dogs won't eat it)
- Carrots
- Cucumbers
- Apples (not the seeds)
- Saskatoon berries
- Rose hips
- Blue Berries
- Rice
- Pumpkin
- Green Beans
- Peas
Interested in taking up a dog sport with your Eromit puppy? Click HERE to see what they are all about! |
|
| We feed and recommend Purina Pro Plan Large Breed Puppy and Lamb & Rice Adult formulas. |
| Did you know? You can feed your puppy or dog small quantities of veggies and fruits as a delicious treat (see list below for items that are safe to eat.) But you should avoid giving young puppies too much of a strange new item - changing or adding to their diet abruptly can lead to diarrhea and dehydration. |
Recommended Vets:
Quesnel Vet Clinic
250-747-2919
Murdoch Veterinary Clinic
Prince George
Western College of
Veterinary Medicine -
Saskatoon, SK
How to find a good vet:
- Ask for referrals from
friends with pets
-Seek out a vet who deals
with dogs on a regular
basis
-Give preference to a vet
who owns Labs or is
involved with dog sports
-Ask questions! Does the
vet keep up with new
research? Do they adopt
new protocols or are they
stuck in the stoneages?
Quesnel Vet Clinic
250-747-2919
Murdoch Veterinary Clinic
Prince George
Western College of
Veterinary Medicine -
Saskatoon, SK
How to find a good vet:
- Ask for referrals from
friends with pets
-Seek out a vet who deals
with dogs on a regular
basis
-Give preference to a vet
who owns Labs or is
involved with dog sports
-Ask questions! Does the
vet keep up with new
research? Do they adopt
new protocols or are they
stuck in the stoneages?
Grooming Your Labrador
We recommend grooming your puppy frequently as a youngster so that he becomes accustomed to the
routine.
We recommend grooming your puppy frequently as a youngster so that he becomes accustomed to the
routine.
- Nail Trimming - An adult dog's nails need to be trimmed approximately every two weeks, although
this will vary depending on how much (and where) your dog exercises. Some dogs tend to
naturally wear down there nails, while others, particularly senior dogs, need more frequent
attention. Check your adult dog at least weekly to see if his nails need trimming. Nails should be
kept short enough that they do not 'click' on a hard-surfaced floor. If your dog's nails have become
quite long, it is advisable to trim just a bit off at a time, and repeat the trimming again in about
three days. This allows the quick - the part of the nail with the blood vessel and nerve- to retreat,
and will result in a more pleasant (and less painful experience for you and your dog. On a dog
with white toenails, you will be able to see the quick, and can avoid it quite easily. With black
toenails it will be invisible. Pay particular attention to dewclaws and be sure to keep them short -
unless your dog is getting a LOT of vigorous exercise, these nails won't wear down.
- Brushing - Brushing your lab can help reduce how much you need to sweep. If your dog is kept
indoors, he will shed a little bit at all times throughout the year. Outdoor dogs tend to blow their
coats in large clumps twice a year, in the spring and fall. Use of your Pet Perfect de-shedding tool
every 6-8 weeks to get rid of any dead hair will GREATLY reduce how much shedding you notice. I
can't recommend this brush enough.. In between times, use your Zoom Groom to stimulate
circulation and natural oils that allow your dogs fur to look shiny and healthy.
- Bathing - Labs do not require regular bathing, if they are swimming often. If your dog rolls on
something gross, or otherwise ends up filthy, bath him in luke warm water using a mild shampoo
such as Johnson and Johnson "No More Tears" baby shampoo, and be sure to rinse thoroughly.
Using shampoo on a regular basis is damaging to the coat because it removes the oils that keep
the fur waterproof, shiny, and healthy.
Grooming Your Puppy
If you practice grooming
your puppy regularly, you
will find that he comes to
enjoy the routine. Before he
leaves our home, your
puppy will have
experienced several nail
trimmings, brushings and
bathings. We recommend
following this schedule:
Nail Trimming - Trim your
puppy's nails at least once
a week. If it doesn't need to
be done, 'fake it' for the
practise! Reward your
puppy for sitting still by
giving him a cookie and a
short break after each foot.
Brushing - Lab puppies
don't start shedding until
they are 6-8 months old,
but practice brushing now
and he enjoy it more as an
adult.
Bathing - Bath your puppy
weekly, but save the
shampoo for occasions
when he is really dirty.
Make sure he is completely
dry before going outside in
cooler temperatures.
If you practice grooming
your puppy regularly, you
will find that he comes to
enjoy the routine. Before he
leaves our home, your
puppy will have
experienced several nail
trimmings, brushings and
bathings. We recommend
following this schedule:
Nail Trimming - Trim your
puppy's nails at least once
a week. If it doesn't need to
be done, 'fake it' for the
practise! Reward your
puppy for sitting still by
giving him a cookie and a
short break after each foot.
Brushing - Lab puppies
don't start shedding until
they are 6-8 months old,
but practice brushing now
and he enjoy it more as an
adult.
Bathing - Bath your puppy
weekly, but save the
shampoo for occasions
when he is really dirty.
Make sure he is completely
dry before going outside in
cooler temperatures.
| CAUTION! |
| Some types of houseplants are toxic to pets if eaten. Pointsettia's are just one example. If you have a green thumb, ensure that you know what plant species are in your home, and keep the deadly plants out of reach of pets. |
Puppy Proofing Your Home
Lab puppies are sweet, angelic little creatures with a great desire to please you and be with you. They
are also energetic, teething little devils with a strong will to carry any object not nailed to the floor. With
this in mind, we recommend puppy proofing your home a few days before your puppy arrives to reduce
the amount of trouble he or she can get into.
Small items that can easily be carried, knocked over or smashed should be removed to a secure area.
In other words, put your tiny hand-carved ornaments on a higher shelf, stash your remote controls in a
drawer and put your slippers in the closet. If it's within reach, it will become fair game at some point.
Even though you plan to carefully supervise your puppy at all times, and will put him in his crate or room
when you are unable to do so, you know that there will be times when you are temporarily distracted by
a phone call, knock on the door, or the smell of burning bacon (at least that's what happens here!) In
the split second that you are attending to these distractions your puppy will have gotten into all sorts of
mischief - unless, that is, you have puppy proofed your home.
In addition to storing small or delicate items out of reach, you will want to make sure than your
household cleaning products, vitamins, or other potentially toxic substances are secured and
inaccessible. Consider using child-proof cupboard locking devices to keep puppy out of kitchen
cabinets and storage closets. Houseplants may need to be moved to higher shelves for the first few
months of your puppy's life as well, and if you have any that are dangerous to pets, you may want to
consider replacing them with a more digestively-friendly species.
We highly recommend investing in a baby gate or two. We have one at the top of our stairs, and one
between the kitchen and living room. This allows us to play with the puppies in a particular area of the
house without having to worry about them dashing off to explore somewhere more interesting. With the
use of the baby gates, it is impossible for the puppies to be out of our sight for even one minute.
Puppy proofing your home is a pretty obvious procedure and for anyone with young children, it's
probably already pretty 'proofed'. Along with proper training and supervision, puppy-proofing your
house will allow your new family member to live safely indoors with minimal damage to your personal
belongings.
Lab puppies are sweet, angelic little creatures with a great desire to please you and be with you. They
are also energetic, teething little devils with a strong will to carry any object not nailed to the floor. With
this in mind, we recommend puppy proofing your home a few days before your puppy arrives to reduce
the amount of trouble he or she can get into.
Small items that can easily be carried, knocked over or smashed should be removed to a secure area.
In other words, put your tiny hand-carved ornaments on a higher shelf, stash your remote controls in a
drawer and put your slippers in the closet. If it's within reach, it will become fair game at some point.
Even though you plan to carefully supervise your puppy at all times, and will put him in his crate or room
when you are unable to do so, you know that there will be times when you are temporarily distracted by
a phone call, knock on the door, or the smell of burning bacon (at least that's what happens here!) In
the split second that you are attending to these distractions your puppy will have gotten into all sorts of
mischief - unless, that is, you have puppy proofed your home.
In addition to storing small or delicate items out of reach, you will want to make sure than your
household cleaning products, vitamins, or other potentially toxic substances are secured and
inaccessible. Consider using child-proof cupboard locking devices to keep puppy out of kitchen
cabinets and storage closets. Houseplants may need to be moved to higher shelves for the first few
months of your puppy's life as well, and if you have any that are dangerous to pets, you may want to
consider replacing them with a more digestively-friendly species.
We highly recommend investing in a baby gate or two. We have one at the top of our stairs, and one
between the kitchen and living room. This allows us to play with the puppies in a particular area of the
house without having to worry about them dashing off to explore somewhere more interesting. With the
use of the baby gates, it is impossible for the puppies to be out of our sight for even one minute.
Puppy proofing your home is a pretty obvious procedure and for anyone with young children, it's
probably already pretty 'proofed'. Along with proper training and supervision, puppy-proofing your
house will allow your new family member to live safely indoors with minimal damage to your personal
belongings.
Introducing Your Puppy to Children and other Pets
Our puppies are extensively socialized with children of various ages and with other house pets like
cats. If you are able to bring your children with to pick up your puppy, we can help with the introduction.
Children should be taught that even though puppies are rough and tumble, they need to be handled
with care. We recommend that in order to hold a puppy, a child should be seated on the floor. Puppies
are squirmy creatures and even the best grip can be escaped from, but if the holder is on the floor, the
puppy can not be dropped and thereby injured.
When approaching a group of puppies, a puppy on its own, or even a strange adult dog, children
should be taught to keep their hands DOWN. For whatever reason, it seems to be the instinct of most
children to try to keep their hands up and away from strange animals - however, a friendly and outgoing
dog will want to smell the child's hands. By keeping their hands down, the child will be able to make an
introduction to the dog and will avoid being jumped on or scratched. Children should also be told to
behave calmly, especially if the puppy seems quite excited. Some children are naturally nervous
around animals, but screaming or otherwise fearful responses should be strongly discouraged. If your
child is quite nervous, show them that the puppy is friendly and keep it restrained so that they can pet
him without fear. It won't be long before the two are best friends, but it is important to get that first
meeting right!
If you have other pets in the household, you will want to take time to introduce them to your puppy as
well. Other dogs should be carefully supervised while meeting your puppy. Not all adult dogs are
completely tolerant of a puppy's goofy behavior and it is important for his safety that you do not leave
them unattended together. Do not allow your puppy to overwhelm your other dogs. Our puppies are very
lucky that they get to be socialized with other Labs of assorted ages, but it can be quite comical to see
their initial reactions to other breeds. Do not allow your puppy to intermingle with dogs that you know to
be unfriendly. For health reasons, do not allow your puppy to meet unvaccinated dogs or dogs with
unknown vaccination histories until after your puppy has completed his entire immunization series.
Talk to your veterinarian about what vaccinations are recommended in your area.
You may want to introduce your puppy to your cat in a more indirect way, particularly if your cat has not
been around dogs before. With the cat in an inconspicuous position, allow the puppy to enter the room
and play with him within view of the cat. Do not try to get them to meet right away - the cat will come
forward when and if she feels comfortable. Our puppies are around cats regularly, and are therefore
quite used to them - but our cats are also very friendly and comfortable with the puppies. It is best for
the puppy and the cat if they meet in a very gradual manner. Do not let your puppy chase or harass the
cat - and don't let your cat bully the puppy (some can react quite aggressively to a new intruder!)
Eventually they will learn to become friends, or at least tolerate each other, but cats cannot be rushed.
Be patient and supervise every encounter and things will be fine.
.
Our puppies are extensively socialized with children of various ages and with other house pets like
cats. If you are able to bring your children with to pick up your puppy, we can help with the introduction.
Children should be taught that even though puppies are rough and tumble, they need to be handled
with care. We recommend that in order to hold a puppy, a child should be seated on the floor. Puppies
are squirmy creatures and even the best grip can be escaped from, but if the holder is on the floor, the
puppy can not be dropped and thereby injured.
When approaching a group of puppies, a puppy on its own, or even a strange adult dog, children
should be taught to keep their hands DOWN. For whatever reason, it seems to be the instinct of most
children to try to keep their hands up and away from strange animals - however, a friendly and outgoing
dog will want to smell the child's hands. By keeping their hands down, the child will be able to make an
introduction to the dog and will avoid being jumped on or scratched. Children should also be told to
behave calmly, especially if the puppy seems quite excited. Some children are naturally nervous
around animals, but screaming or otherwise fearful responses should be strongly discouraged. If your
child is quite nervous, show them that the puppy is friendly and keep it restrained so that they can pet
him without fear. It won't be long before the two are best friends, but it is important to get that first
meeting right!
If you have other pets in the household, you will want to take time to introduce them to your puppy as
well. Other dogs should be carefully supervised while meeting your puppy. Not all adult dogs are
completely tolerant of a puppy's goofy behavior and it is important for his safety that you do not leave
them unattended together. Do not allow your puppy to overwhelm your other dogs. Our puppies are very
lucky that they get to be socialized with other Labs of assorted ages, but it can be quite comical to see
their initial reactions to other breeds. Do not allow your puppy to intermingle with dogs that you know to
be unfriendly. For health reasons, do not allow your puppy to meet unvaccinated dogs or dogs with
unknown vaccination histories until after your puppy has completed his entire immunization series.
Talk to your veterinarian about what vaccinations are recommended in your area.
You may want to introduce your puppy to your cat in a more indirect way, particularly if your cat has not
been around dogs before. With the cat in an inconspicuous position, allow the puppy to enter the room
and play with him within view of the cat. Do not try to get them to meet right away - the cat will come
forward when and if she feels comfortable. Our puppies are around cats regularly, and are therefore
quite used to them - but our cats are also very friendly and comfortable with the puppies. It is best for
the puppy and the cat if they meet in a very gradual manner. Do not let your puppy chase or harass the
cat - and don't let your cat bully the puppy (some can react quite aggressively to a new intruder!)
Eventually they will learn to become friends, or at least tolerate each other, but cats cannot be rushed.
Be patient and supervise every encounter and things will be fine.
.
| Containment |
Is your yard completely and
securely fenced? Even if
your puppy is destined to live
indoors, you should make
accomodations available
outside. While they are
young, you will go out with
them when it's time to do
their 'potty business', but as
they get older, you will want
to be able to scoot them out
the door from time to time. A
lab cannot be left
uncontained and
unsupervised. Even the
most laidback labrador will
roam if given the opportunity.
They do not possess the
territorial instincts that some
of the working and herding
breeds have, and therefore
should not be trusted to stay
home - regardless of how
remote or large your yard is.
For your dog's safety, please
ensure that your fencing is
secure, or if your yard is not
fenced, consider building or
purchasing a dog run for
those times when the dog
will need to be outside. A
kennel kit can be purchased
from places like Home
Depot or Peavey Mart for
around $200 and will allow
you to be able to put your
dog outside during nice
weather when you are not
home. Because labs are
well-known as lovable,
friendly dogs, and are
valuable to numerous
different types of people,
they are often targeted by
thieves. Tto prevent being
stolen or run over, your dog
should be contained either
by a fenced yard or dog run
whenever they are outside
and unsupervised. We
recommend locking the gate
when you are not at home.
securely fenced? Even if
your puppy is destined to live
indoors, you should make
accomodations available
outside. While they are
young, you will go out with
them when it's time to do
their 'potty business', but as
they get older, you will want
to be able to scoot them out
the door from time to time. A
lab cannot be left
uncontained and
unsupervised. Even the
most laidback labrador will
roam if given the opportunity.
They do not possess the
territorial instincts that some
of the working and herding
breeds have, and therefore
should not be trusted to stay
home - regardless of how
remote or large your yard is.
For your dog's safety, please
ensure that your fencing is
secure, or if your yard is not
fenced, consider building or
purchasing a dog run for
those times when the dog
will need to be outside. A
kennel kit can be purchased
from places like Home
Depot or Peavey Mart for
around $200 and will allow
you to be able to put your
dog outside during nice
weather when you are not
home. Because labs are
well-known as lovable,
friendly dogs, and are
valuable to numerous
different types of people,
they are often targeted by
thieves. Tto prevent being
stolen or run over, your dog
should be contained either
by a fenced yard or dog run
whenever they are outside
and unsupervised. We
recommend locking the gate
when you are not at home.
| How to select the best puppy from a litter. |
The First Big Road Trip
When you come to pick up your puppy, please ensure that you have allotted a couple of hours to meet
us, the other dogs, to go over paperwork and items in your puppy kit, and to ask any questions you
might have. We ask that you let us know as soon as possible as to the date you will be picking up your
puppy - an appointment is required and we try to stagger pick-ups so that you will have our undivided
attention while here.
Here are some things that you will want to bring for the first big trip.
- Crate - be sure to bring some extra bedding along
- Dog Dish - it's a good idea to bring some bottled water also.
- Poop bags - puppy will likely need some pit stops, so be prepared! A good place to get tiny
poop bags is at a dollar store. - Paper Towel & Spray cleaner - although most puppies will not mess in a vehicle, it may take
some time for you to get used to his or her 'asking out' signal - so come prepared for an
accident. - Chew toy - good for long drives. Puppy probably won't be interested right away but may settle
down in a few hours for a good chew.
***Your puppy comes with a collar, leash, and a small starter bag of puppy food, so you do not need to
bring these things. Also, we will send you off with something that smells like mom and the litter
(blanket or stuffed toy) to help keep baby from being homesick.
| Puppy on a Plane? In order to ship a puppy by airplane, he or she must be 8 weeks old and examined by a veterinarian. We prefer to fly our puppies on West Jet but will occasionally use other airlines if circumstances are right. When you pick your puppy up from the airport, please be prepared to provide ID, proof of address and a copy of the bill of sale (we will email or mail you a copy well in advance). Puppies who are flown will not get a free starter bag of food, but will get coupons in lieu. Be sure to have some Pro Plan Large-Breed Puppy food on hand at home. Come to the airport prepared with the above paperwork, as well as poop bags, paper towel, and some clean bedding for the crate. You may also want to bring a garbage bag or something in which to put dirty crate blankets. It is not uncommon for puppies to have an accident on the flight - there is no one there to let them out when they ask! Please also bring a small dish and some water as your puppy could be thirsty. Also, be sure to phone us to let us know that he or she has safely arrived! |
Health Insurance
People often ask what type of health insurance I recommend. With your puppy purchase, you will receive
6 weeks free of puppy health insurance from Pet Plan insurance (as long as you are a Canadian puppy
buyer who picks their puppy up or has it flown at 8 weeks of age or later). From my perspective, health
insurance for a large number of dogs is not economical - we have savings set aside for emergencies.
However, with one pet dog, you may be able to find a plan that is both affordable and useful. To
determine if the pet insurance you are examining is a good deal, it is important to what exactly is
covered. Be sure to ask plenty of questions prior to enrolling, such as
-what is the monthly fee?
- is there an 'enrollment charge'?
- how much is the deductable?
- are their certain illnesses/problems that are not covered?
- what is the maximum annual coverage?
- does this policy cover routine care?
..... and so on. You may want to ask your veterinarian if they can recommend a specific policy - the vet will
know which companies are good at promptly paying claims, and which ones are known for avoiding
payment.
In addition to Pet Plan insurance, Purina provides pet insurance, as does Vetinsurance.
People often ask what type of health insurance I recommend. With your puppy purchase, you will receive
6 weeks free of puppy health insurance from Pet Plan insurance (as long as you are a Canadian puppy
buyer who picks their puppy up or has it flown at 8 weeks of age or later). From my perspective, health
insurance for a large number of dogs is not economical - we have savings set aside for emergencies.
However, with one pet dog, you may be able to find a plan that is both affordable and useful. To
determine if the pet insurance you are examining is a good deal, it is important to what exactly is
covered. Be sure to ask plenty of questions prior to enrolling, such as
-what is the monthly fee?
- is there an 'enrollment charge'?
- how much is the deductable?
- are their certain illnesses/problems that are not covered?
- what is the maximum annual coverage?
- does this policy cover routine care?
..... and so on. You may want to ask your veterinarian if they can recommend a specific policy - the vet will
know which companies are good at promptly paying claims, and which ones are known for avoiding
payment.
In addition to Pet Plan insurance, Purina provides pet insurance, as does Vetinsurance.
Dog Care Budget
How much is that doggy in the window? Well, let's put it
this way - the purchase price of a dog is small compared
to other costs of pet ownership. To give you a rough idea
of what to budget, we provide the following list.
Puppy Costs (one time costs)
Purchase price ........ $1000-$1500
Crate (large size)......................$100
Dishes...........................................$20
puppy collar................................free*
puppy leash................................free*
Adult collar.....................................$15
Adult leash.....................................$15
Dog Tag.......................................free*
engraving...................................$15
Puppy Vaccinations....................$200
Neuter...........................................$150 or
Spay...............................................$250
Dog Bed..........................................$40
Toys.................................................$50
Outdoor kennel or fence............$500
Nail trimmers...............................$15
Pet Perfect Brush........................$40
How much is that doggy in the window? Well, let's put it
this way - the purchase price of a dog is small compared
to other costs of pet ownership. To give you a rough idea
of what to budget, we provide the following list.
Puppy Costs (one time costs)
Purchase price ........ $1000-$1500
Crate (large size)......................$100
Dishes...........................................$20
puppy collar................................free*
puppy leash................................free*
Adult collar.....................................$15
Adult leash.....................................$15
Dog Tag.......................................free*
engraving...................................$15
Puppy Vaccinations....................$200
Neuter...........................................$150 or
Spay...............................................$250
Dog Bed..........................................$40
Toys.................................................$50
Outdoor kennel or fence............$500
Nail trimmers...............................$15
Pet Perfect Brush........................$40
Ongoing costs
Food........................................$60/ month
Treats......................................$15/month
Training (2 classes/yr).........$240/year
Annual vet check....................$50/year
Monthly deworming................$ 5/month
Heartworm meds....................$120/year
Adult vaccinations...............$75/every 3rd year
Grooming supplies
(shampoo, q-tips, ear cleaner)..$30/year
Boarding
-while you're on vacation, at wedding, etc
..................................................$15/day x ? days
Chewy Bones............................$10/month
Cleaner
- for accidents or just to get rid of doggy smell
.............................................................$10/month
*There are also going to be costs for things like new
bedding, new toys, the shoes your puppy eats, injuries
requiring veterinary attention, lawn repairs, etc. Be sure to
expect the unexpected!